Jock of the Bushveld Read online

  The charm of a life of freedom and complete independence – a life in which a man goes as and where he lists, and carries his home with him – is great indeed; but great too was the fact that hunting would go with it.

  How the little things that mark a new departure stamp themselves indelibly on the memory! A flower in the hedgerow where the roads divide will mark the spot in one’s mind for ever; and yet a million more, before and after, and all as beautiful, are passed unseen. In memory, it is all as fresh, bright and glorious as ever: only the years have gone. The start, the trek along the plateau, the crystal streams, the ferns and trees, the cool pure air; and, through and over all, the quite intoxicating sense of freedom! Then came the long slow climb to Spitzkop where the Berg is highest and where our descent began. For there, with Africa’s contrariness, the highest parts banked up and buttressed by gigantic spurs are most accessible from below, while the lower edges of the plateau are cut off sheer like the walls of some great fortress. There, near Spitzkop, we looked down upon the promised land; there, stood upon the outmost edge, as a diver on his board, and paused and looked and breathed before we took the plunge.

  It is well to pitch one’s expectations low and so stave off disappointments. But counsels of perfection are wasted on the young, and when accident combines with the hopefulness of youth to lay the colours on in all their gorgeousness, what chance has Wisdom?

  ‘See here, young feller!’ said Wisdom, ‘don’t go fill yourself up with tomfool notions ‘bout lions and tigers waitin’ behind every bush. You won’t see one in a twelvemonth! Most like you won’t see a buck for a week! You don’t know what to do, what to wear, how to walk, how to look or what to look for; and you’ll make as much noise as a traction engine. This ain’t open country: it’s bush; they can see and hear, and you can’t. An’ as for big game, you won’t see any for a long while yet, so don’t go fool yourself!’

  Excellent! But fortune in a sportive mood ordained that the very first thing we saw as we outspanned at Saunderson’s on the very first day in the Bushveld was the fresh skin of a lion stretched out to dry. What would the counsels of Solomon himself have weighed against that wet skin?

  Wisdom scratched its head and stared: ‘Well, I am completely sugared!’

  Of course it was a fluke. No lions had been seen in the locality for several years; but the beginner, filled with all the wildest expectations, took no heed of that. If the wish be father to the thought, then surely fact may well beget conviction. It was so in this case, at any rate, and thus not all the cold assurances of Wisdom could banish visions of big game as plentiful as partridges.

  A party had set out upon a tiger hunt to clear out one of those marauders who used to haunt the kloofs of the Berg and make descents upon the Kaffir herds of goats and sheep; but there was special interest in this particular tiger, for he had killed one of the white hunters in the last attempt to get at him a few weeks before. Starting from the store, the party of men and boys worked their way towards the kloof and the possibility of coming across a lion never entered their heads. No notice was taken of smaller game put up from time to time as they moved carelessly along; a rustle on the left of the line was ignored, and Bill Saunderson was as surprised as Bill could ever be to see a lion facing him at something like six or seven yards. The lion, with head laid level and tail flicking ominously, half crouched for its spring. Bill’s bullet glanced along the skull, peeling off the skin. ‘It was a bad shot,’ he said afterwards, in answer to the beginner’s breathless questions. ‘He wasn’t hurt: just sank a little like a pointer when you check him; but before he steadied up again I took for the nose and got him. You see,’ he added thoughtfully, ‘a lion’s got no forehead: it is all hair.’

  That was about all he had to say; but, little store as he may have set on it, the tip was never forgotten and proved of much value to at least one of our party years afterwards. To this day the picture of a lion brings up that scene – the crouching beast, faced by a man with a long brown beard, solemn face and clear unfaltering eyes; the swift yet quiet action of reloading; and the second shot an inch or so lower, because ‘a lion’s got no forehead: it’s all hair’.

  The shooting of a lion, fair and square and face to face, was the Blue Riband of the Bush, and no detail would have seemed superfluous; but Bill, whose eye nothing could escape, had, like many great hunters, a laggard tongue. Only now and then a look of grave amusement lighted up his face to show he recognised the hungry enthusiasm and his own inability to satisfy it. The skin with the grazed stripe along the nose, and the broken skull, were handled and looked at many times, and the story was pumped from every Kaffir – all voluble and eager, but none eyewitnesses. Bob, the sociable and more communicative, who had been nearest his brother, was asked a hundred questions, but all he had to say was that the grass was too long for him to see what happened: he reckoned that it was a ‘pretty near thing after the first shot; but Bill’s all right!’

  To me it was an absurd and tiresome affectation to show interest in any other topic, and when, during that evening, conversation strayed to other subjects, it seemed waste of time and priceless opportunity. Bob responded good-naturedly to many crude attempts to head them back to the entrancing theme, but the professional interest in rates, loads, rivers, roads, disease, drought and ‘fly’ was strong in the older transport-riders, as it should have been, but, for the time at least, was not in me. If diplomacy failed, however, luck was not all out; for when all the pet subjects of the road had been thrashed out and it was about time to turn in, a stray question brought the reward of patience.

  ‘Have you heard if Jim reached Durban all right?’

  ‘Yes! Safely shipped.’

  ‘You got someone to take him right through?’

  ‘No! A Dutchman took him to Lydenburg and I got Tom Hardy, going back empty, to take him along from there.’

  ‘What about feeding?’

  ‘I sent some goats,’ said Bob, smiling for a moment at some passing thought, and then went on: ‘Tom said he had an old span that wouldn’t mind it. We loaded him up at Parker’s and I cleared out before he got the cattle up. But they tell me there was a gay jamboree when it came to inspanning; and as soon as they got up to the other waggons and the young bullocks winded Jim, they started off with their tails up – a regular stampede, voorlopers and drivers yelling like mad, all the loose things shaking out of the waggons, and Tom nearly in a fit from running, shouting and swearing.’

  Judging by the laughter, there was only one person present who did not understand the joke, and I had to ask – with some misgiving – who was this Jim who needed so much care and feeding and caused such a scare.

  There was another burst of laughter as they guessed my thoughts, and it was Bob who answered me: ‘Only a lion, lad – not a wild man or a lunatic! Only a young lion! Sold him to the Zoo, and had to deliver him in Durban.’

  ‘Well, you fairly took me in with the name!’

  ‘Oh! Jim? Well, that’s his pet name. His real name is Dabulamanzi. Jim, my hunting boy, caught him, so we call him Jim out of compliment/ he added with a grin. ‘But Jim called him Dabulamanzi also out of compliment, and I think that was pretty good for a nigger.’

  ‘You see,’ said Bob, for the benefit of those who were not up in local history, ‘Dabulamanzi, the big fighting general in the Zulu War, was Jim’s own chief and leader; and the name means The one who conquers the waters.’

  Then one of the others exclaimed: ‘Oh! Of course, that’s how you got him, isn’t it: caught him in a river? Tell us what did happen, Bob. What’s the truth of it? It seemed a bit steep as I heard it.’

  ‘Well, it’s really simple enough. We came right on to the lioness waiting for us, and I got her; and then there were shouts from the boys, and I saw a couple of cubs, pretty well grown, making off in the grass. This boy Jim legged it after one of them, a cub about as big as a Newfoundland dog – not so high, but longer. I followed as fast as I could, but he was a big Zulu and went l
ike a buck, yelling like mad all the time. We were in the bend of one of the long pools down near the Komati, and when I got through the reeds the cub was near the water’s edge facing Jim, and Jim was dancing around heading it off with only one light stick. As soon as it saw us coming on, the cub took to the water, and Jim after it. It was as good as a play. Jim swam up behind, and putting his hand on its head ducked it right under: the cub turned as it came up and struck out at him viciously, but he was back out of reach: when it turned again to go Jim ducked it again, and it went on like that six or eight times, till the thing was half drowned and had no more fight in it. Then Jim got hold of it by the tail and swam back to us, still shouting and quite mad with excitement.

  ‘Of course,’ added Bob with a wag of his head, ‘you can say it was only a cub; but it takes a good man to go up naked and tackle a thing like that, with teeth and claws to cut you into ribbons.’

  ‘Was Jim here today?’ I asked, as soon as there was an opening. Bob shook his head with a kindly regretful smile. ‘No, Sonny, not here; you’d ‘a’ heard him. Jim’s gone. I had to sack him. A real fine nigger, but a terror to drink, and always in trouble. He fairly wore me right out.’

  We were generally a party of half a dozen – the owners of the four waggons, a couple of friends trading with Delagoa, a man from Swaziland and – just then – an old Yankee hunter prospector. It was our holiday time, before the hard work with loads would commence, and we dawdled along feeding up the cattle and taking it easy ourselves.

  It was too early for loads in the Bay, so we moved slowly and hunted on the way, sometimes camping for several days in places where the grass and water were good; and that lion skin was the cause of many disappointments to me. Never a bush or ant heap, never a donga or a patch of reeds, did I pass for many days after that without the conviction that something was lurking there. Game there was in plenty, no doubt, but it did not come my way. Days went by with, once or twice, the sight of some small buck just as it disappeared, and many times the noise of something in the bush or the sound of galloping feet. Others brought their contributions to the pot daily and there seemed to be no reason in the world why I alone should fail – no reason except sheer bad luck. It is difficult to believe you have made mistakes when you do not know enough to recognise them, and have no idea of the extent of your own ignorance; and then bad luck is such an easy and such a flattering explanation! If I did not go so far on the easy road of excuse-making as to put all the failures down to bad luck, perhaps someone else deserves the credit.

  One evening as we were lounging round the campfire, Robbie, failing to find a soft spot for his head on a thorn log, got up reluctantly to fetch his blankets, exclaiming with a mock tragic air:

  The time is out of joint; O cursed spite,

  That ever I was born to set it right.

  We knew Robbie’s way. There were times when he would spout heroics, suggested by some passing trifle, his own face a marvel of solemnity the whole time and only the amused expression in his spectacled grey eyes to show he was poking fun at himself. An indulgent smile, a chuckle and the genial comment ‘Silly ass!’ came from different quarters; for Robbie was a favourite. Only Old Rocky maintained his usual gravity.

  As Robbie settled down again in comfort, the old man remarked in level thoughtful tones: ‘I reckon the feller as said that was a waster, he chucked it!’ There was a short pause in which I, in my ignorance, began to wonder if it was possible that Rocky did not know the source; or did he take the quotation seriously? Then Robbie answered in mild protest: ‘It was a gentleman of the name of Hamlet who said it.’

  ‘Well, you can bet he was no good, anyhow,’ Rocky drawled out. ‘Jus’ my luck! is the waster’s motto!’

  ‘They do say he was mad,’ Robbie replied, as his face twitched with a pull your leg expression, ‘but he got off a lot of first class things all the same – some of the best things ever said.’

  ‘I da’ say; they mostly can. But a man as sets down and blames his luck is no good anyhow. He’s got no sand, and got no sense, and got no honesty! It ain’t the time’s wrong: it’s the man! It ain’t the job’s too big: it’s the man’s too little!’

  ‘You don’t believe in luck at all, Rocky?’ I ventured to put in.

  ‘I don’t say thar’s no such thing as luck – good and bad; but it ain’t the explanation o’ success an’ failure – not by a long way. No, sirree, luck’s just the thing any man’d like ter believe is the reason for his failure and another feller’s success. But it ain’t so. When another man pulls off what you don’t, the first thing you got ter believe is it’s your own fault; and the last, it’s his luck. And you jus’ got ter wade in an’ find out whar you went wrong, an’ put it right, ‘thout any excuses an’ explanations.’

  ‘But, Rocky, explanations aren’t always excuses and sometimes you really have to give them!’

  ‘Sonny, you kin reckon it dead sure thar’s something wrong ‘bout a thing that don’t explain itself; an’ one explanation’s as bad as two mistakes – it don’t fool anybody worth speaking of, ‘cept yerself. You find the remedy; you can leave other folks put up the excuses.’

  I was beaten. It was no use going on, for I knew he was right. I suppose the other fellows also knew whom he was getting at, but they said nothing; and the subject seemed to have dropped, when Rocky, harking back to Robbie’s quotation, said, with a ghost of a smile: ‘I reckon ef that sharp o’ your’n hed ter keep the camp in meat we’d go pretty nigh hungry.’

  But it seemed a good deal to give up all at once – the bad luck, the excuses and explanations, and the comfort they afforded; and I could not help thinking of that wretched wrong-headed stembuck that had actually allowed me to pass it, and then cantered away behind me.

  Rocky, known, liked and respected by all, yet intimate with none, was ‘going North’ – even to the Zambesi, it was whispered – but no one knew where or why. He was going off alone, with two pack-donkeys and not even a boy for company, on a trip of many hundreds of miles and indefinite duration. No doubt he had an idea to work out; perhaps a report of some trader or hunter or even native was his pole star: most certainly he had a plan, but what it was no living soul would know. That was the way of his kind. With them there was no limit in time or distance, no hint of purpose or direction, no home, no address, no ‘people’; perhaps a partner somewhere or a chum, as silent as themselves, who would hear some day – if there was anything to tell.

  Rocky had worked near our camp on the Berg. I had known him to nod to, and when we met again at one of the early outspans in the Bush and offered a lift for him and his packs he accepted and joined us, it being still a bit early to attempt crossing the rivers with pack-donkeys. It may be that the ‘lift’ saved his donkeys something on the roughest roads and in the early stages; or it may be that we served as a useful screen for his movements, making it difficult for anyone else to follow his line and watch him. Anyway, he joined us in the way of those days: that is, we travelled together and as a rule we grubbed together; yet each cooked for himself and used his own stores, and in principle we maintained our separate establishments. The bag alone was common; each man brought what game he got and threw it into the common stock.

  The secret of agreement in the veld is – complete independence! Points of contact are points of friction – nowhere more so; and the safest plan is, each man his own outfit and each free to feed or sleep or trek as and when he chooses. I have known partners and friends who would from time to time move a trek apart, or a day apart, and always camp apart when they rejoined; and so remain friends.

  Rocky – in full, Rocky Mountain Jack – had another name, but it was known to few besides the Mining Commissioner’s clerk who registered his licences from time to time. ‘In the Rockies whar I was raised’ is about the only remark having deliberate reference to his personal history which he was known to have made, but it was enough on which to found the name by which we knew him.

  What struck me first about him w
as the long Colt’s revolver, carried on his hip; and for two days this ‘gun’, as he called it, conjured up visions of Poker Flat and Roaring Camp, Jack Hamlin and Yuba Bill of cherished memory; and then the inevitable question got itself asked: ‘Did you ever shoot a man, Rocky?’

  ‘No, Sonny,’ he drawled gently, ‘never hed ter use it!’

  ‘It looks very old. Have you had it long?’

  ‘Jus’ ‘bout thirty years, I reckon!’

  ‘Oh! Seems a long time to carry a thing without using it!’

  ‘Waal,’ he answered half absently, ‘thet’s so. It’s a thing you don’t want orfen – but when you do, you want it derned bad!’

  Rocky seemed to me to have stepped into our life out of the pages of Bret Harte. For me the glamour of romance was cast by the Master’s spell over all that world and no doubt helped to make old Rocky something of a hero in the eyes of youth; but such help was of small account, for the cardinal fact was Rocky himself. He was a man.

  There did not seem to be any known region of the earth where prospectors roam that he had not sampled and yet, whilst gleaning something from every land, his native flavour clung to him unchanged. He was silent by habit and impossible to draw; not helpful to those who looked for short cuts, yet kindly and patient with those who meant to try; he was not to be exploited and had an illuminating instinct for what was not genuine. He had ‘no use for short weight’ – and showed it!

  I used to watch him in the circle round the fire at nights, his face grave, weather-stained and wrinkled, with clear grey eyes and long brown beard, slightly grizzled then – watch and wonder why Rocky, experienced, wise and steadfast, should – at sixty – be seeking still. Were the prizes so few in the prospector’s life? Or was there something wanting in him too? Why had he not achieved success?